17세기 초 프랑스 남자복식 디자인 및 구성 연구 -뿌르쁘앙(Pourpoint)과 오 드 쇼스(Haut-de-chausses) (Study on French Man's Clothing Design and Construction of the early 17th Century-Pourpoint and Haut-de-chausses)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 한국패션디자인학회
· 수록지 정보 : 한국패션디자인학회지 / 7권 / 2호 / 105 ~ 120페이지
· 저자명 : 김양희, 정성혜

초록

The purpose of this research is to contribute to the creation of fashion design, and the research and development of performance costumes by exploring features of Pourpoint and Haut-de-chausses of the early 17th century such as forms, materials, details and sewing techniques through various kinds of data, recreate patterns and help accumulate data regarding dress from the past.
Content and methods of the research are as follows.
Firstly, the study overcomes limitations of setting types of era based on consideration of several painting materials and simple advanced studies of description of forms and provides objectivity and accuracy by setting representative types through analysis of vast volumes of fashion printmaking.
Secondly, the study seeks to compare these with different types of materials to complement shortcomings of a single data and analyze forms. Writing and painting materials make comparative analysis of colors and adornments possible, and advanced studies that regenerated rare historical materials observe examples of forms and compositions.
Thirdly, reproduction with Muslin three-dimensional cutting technique will help figure out more exact structures and, furthermore, will be readily available. After reviewing advanced studies on literature regarding patterns of the day and on reproduction of patterns, regeneration occurred, adopting Muslin and finally, pattern was presented.
As a result, a resulting representative type has transitional design characteristics that move away from a rather unnatural and exaggerated baroque style into a bright and natural rococo style. The pattern also reflects this trend, making movement of bodies easier while pursuing natural shape by connecting bodice cut in straight lines close to the body to lower part of waist and sleeves. Pants become loose with puckered waist and in overall, follow bodily silhouette. In addition front is fixed, adjusted straight front fly, which makes those pants look nearly the same as modern-day pants.

영어초록

The purpose of this research is to contribute to the creation of fashion design, and the research and development of performance costumes by exploring features of Pourpoint and Haut-de-chausses of the early 17th century such as forms, materials, details and sewing techniques through various kinds of data, recreate patterns and help accumulate data regarding dress from the past.
Content and methods of the research are as follows.
Firstly, the study overcomes limitations of setting types of era based on consideration of several painting materials and simple advanced studies of description of forms and provides objectivity and accuracy by setting representative types through analysis of vast volumes of fashion printmaking.
Secondly, the study seeks to compare these with different types of materials to complement shortcomings of a single data and analyze forms. Writing and painting materials make comparative analysis of colors and adornments possible, and advanced studies that regenerated rare historical materials observe examples of forms and compositions.
Thirdly, reproduction with Muslin three-dimensional cutting technique will help figure out more exact structures and, furthermore, will be readily available. After reviewing advanced studies on literature regarding patterns of the day and on reproduction of patterns, regeneration occurred, adopting Muslin and finally, pattern was presented.
As a result, a resulting representative type has transitional design characteristics that move away from a rather unnatural and exaggerated baroque style into a bright and natural rococo style. The pattern also reflects this trend, making movement of bodies easier while pursuing natural shape by connecting bodice cut in straight lines close to the body to lower part of waist and sleeves. Pants become loose with puckered waist and in overall, follow bodily silhouette. In addition front is fixed, adjusted straight front fly, which makes those pants look nearly the same as modern-day pants.

참고자료

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