淸代 江南의 염색업과 외지상인 (Dyeing Business and Traveling Traders in Jiangnan Region During the Qing Period)

서지정보

· 발행기관 : 효원사학회
· 수록지 정보 : 역사와 세계 / 47권 / 33 ~ 55페이지
· 저자명 : 민경준

초록

강남 지방 직물 - 견직물과 면직물 - 의 우수한 명성은 직조 전 또는 후의 숙련과 염색 가공에 기반을 두고 있었다. 염색가공공장은 일반적으로 染坊이라 불렀다. 명대까지만 해도 외지인은 객상으로 활동하는 외에는 대부분 완성품의 유통 조직이나 상점 경영에만 참여할 수 있었다. 그러나 청대가 시작되면서부터 이들 외지 출신 상인들이 직접 염색업에 투자하고 경영하는 사례가 증가하기 시작하고, 염색 노동자 중에도 외지 출신이 증가한다. 강남의 염색업에서 청대는 객상의 자본이 염색업에 직접 투자하는 방식을 통해 생산에 대한 지배력을 강화하던 시대였다.

영어초록

During the Ming(明) and the Qing(淸) Period, the outstanding fame of fabrics such as silk and cotton from the southern region of Jiangnan(江南) was based on the dyeing processing as well as the skill involved before and after weaving. Silk dyeing developed in few small cities in the region of Jiaxing(嘉興) and Huzhou(湖州), including three main cities such as Nanjing(南京), Suzhou(蘇州) and Hangzhou(杭州). Cotton dyeing developed in Songjiang(松江) and Suzhou, and also in small cities around them. Each city was particularly famous for dyeing certain color. Nanjing was famous for dark black; Suzhou for deep blue; Zhenjiang(鎭江) for deep red, and Hangzhou for jade green.
Dyeing processing factories were usually called ranfang(染坊). It is difficult to grasp the scale or internal organization of the dyeing business due to lack of historical sources. Workers at a dyeing processing factory in a large city ranged from scores to hundreds. Even a factory in a small city had dozens of workers. In the Ming Period, most of the founders and workers of dyeing factories in each city of Jiangnan were natives. Occasionally, there were people from other regions like Nanjing and Zhenjiang among the dyeing laborers. Besides working as traveling traders, merchants from other regions, in general, were allowed to participate only in organizing distribution of finished products of managing stores. However, beginning from the Qing Period, cases of merchants from other regions getting directly involved in investing and managing dyeing business increased, so did the number of dyeing laborers from other regions.
The increase of non-native workers in the silk dyeing business was more prominent in the large cities compared to small cities. For example, a native of Huizhou(徽州) established a dyeing factory in Shuanglinzhen(雙林鎭), when a native of Nanjing, Zhenjiang, or Jining(濟寧) found factories in Chengzezhen(盛澤鎭), and a native of Shaoxing(紹興) in Puyuanzhen(濮院鎭). These founders reinforced their trade with stores to which they were related and expanded their control over manufacturing and distribution. Since the middle of Qing Period, Suzhou, in particular, started to obtain the competitive edge over its neighboring Songjiang, which had been the center of cotton textile industry until then, and became the new center of cotton textile distribution and dyeing processing. However, it was none other than the merchants from Huizhou who increased their investments in the dyeing business in Suzhou and came to dominate the distribution organization and dyeing processing of cotton textiles in the region.
Thus, dyeing business in the Jiangnan during the Qing Period developed with the traveling traders who strengthened their control over the production by making direct investments to the dyeing business.

참고자료

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